Waldo Williams

The poetry of the Preselis

Regarded by many as among the 20th century’s greatest Welsh poets, Waldo Williams (1904-1971) grew up within sight of the Preseli Hills and they are the subject of one of his best-known works.

A lifelong pacifist, Preseli was composed in 1946 as a protest against plans to turn the area into a permanent military training ground.

Hume Gravell describes the three hills in the poem that the poet calls “the wall of my boyhood”

Read Waldo's translation of the poem

Moel Drigarn

This is the most well-known peak of the three. It is visible from Crymych, and the way to get to it is to follow the back road from Crymych to Mynachlog-ddu. Soon you will arrive at a lay-by with plenty of space to park, and Moel Drigarn is on the right-hand side. Now it's time to walk. Follow a narrow road until you reach a gate leading to the open mountain. From here there are several paths that zigzag to the summit, and they are not too steep.

At the summit, there are three things to admire. Firstly, the views of Pembrokeshire, Ceredigion, Carmarthenshire and further afield, depending on the weather. Secondly, the three large mounds of Bronze Age stones. Thirdly, three circles of ramparts. In the Iron Age, Moel Drigarn developed into an important hill fort. According to archaeologists, over two hundred huts were dug into the sides of the hill fort, which is now hidden in the heather. These developments took place over many centuries.

When Waldo was a teacher in England, he saw the skeleton of a young woman(?) in Avebury museum. Was he thinking about Moel Drigarn when he composed 'Young Girl’?

‘She catches me by surprise every time.’

'Still young when they put her in her crouched position forever.’

Carn Gyfrwy

One way to approach this small elongated hill is from Crymych to Croes Fihangel, then parking by the side of the road and following the lane that leads to the open mountain terrain. A prominent path runs to the south-west, the historic ‘Golden Road’ which runs through the Preseli hills. Within a mile, Carn Gyfrwy is in front of you. The peak takes the form of a rocky outcrop, behind which is the saddle for which the hill is aptly named. If you have children with you (or adults under 50) they will enjoy the undulations along the saddle.

Carn Gyfrwy is a relatively small feature of the Preseli landscape. The walker’s attention will immediately be drawn to the cairns and boulder fields that make up Carn Meini.

This is an opportunity to ask why Waldo chose these three hills to name in one of his best-known poems. There is no alliteration in their names, and the three peaks differ greatly in height, prominence, size and fame; Foel Drygarn is important as an archaeological site, Carn Alw is a small feature that catches the eye for a mere moment, Tal Mynydd hasn’t much to attract walkers. The three hills can’t all be seen from Mynachlog-ddu, or from Clunderwen, both places where Waldo lived. Two locations can be seen from the third, so it’s possible that the three hills caught Waldo’s attention when he was walking in this area. Any other suggestions?

Tal Mynydd